1. Cut off any loose shards of P-tex around the damaged area using a razor blade so you have a nice, distinct gouge to work with.
2. Clean the gouge using base cleaner and a rag. Dig out any bits of stone and dirt using the edge of your metal scraper, a firm brush or the razor blade; whatever does the job.
3. Allow the area to dry for about half an hour.
4. Choose an appropriate P-tex candle for the colour of your base. They usually come in white (which runs clear when melted) or black.
5. If you’ve got a P-tex gun, lucky you. Just put the stick in the end and use it like a glue gun to fill the hole. Make a couple of passes depending how deep the damage is.
6. If you don’t have a P-tex gun or just like burning stuff, this is where it gets interesting. Grab a lighter and set fire to the end of your chosen P-tex candle. Mind your fingers – this shit gets crazy hot! It helps to hold it over something you don’t mind getting messy as it starts to drip, like your metal scraper or a piece of thick cardboard.
Tip: It’s easier to use a regular wax candle as your heat source when lighting the P-tex stick, especially as you may need to ignite it several times over the course of the repair.
7. Once the candle is burning by itself and dripping molten P-tex, move it over the gouge and start to fill it.
8. Keep the flame low down so it burns blue; if you raise the candle too high it will burn yellow and start dripping carbon along with the P-tex. This is especially important if you’re using a white/clear stick.
9. Keep the candle moving across the gouge, you don’t want to hover over one area for too long because it will form lumps and/or overfill it. Steady as she goes.
10. If the flame goes out, immediately stub the end on your metal scraper and start again, to avoid more carbon deposits spoiling the look of your repair job.
11. Go back and forth as many times as required until the repair is just above level with the rest of the base. Leave it to cool for half an hour.
12. You might find the middle of your repair sinks a little as it cools; if so, perform another pass.
13. Once dry, it’s time to file it back flush with the base. If the new P-tex is especially thick you’ll need to start with the bastard file, angling it at 45 degrees and brushing away the shavings as you go. (The risk of going straight in with the metal scraper is that it will tear the plug out in one chunk.)
14. Progress to the finer file if required.
15. Once the repair is only slightly proud of the base, use the metal scraper to refine it further. Hold it with the edge at 45 degrees and try to work in one direction, from nose to tail.
16. Finish with some fine sandpaper, then apply a fresh coat of wax to the whole board. Wupah! Fixed.
